hoogteverloop
Introduction
When thinking about the Netherlands a few things immediately spring to mind. The country is small, flat and largely urbanized. There is a lot of water and a lot of rain. On the whole these are the right impressions. You might conclude it’s not a nice place to walk a Route. But you would be wrong.

There is no mountain to climb, no remote place to play hermit, no heavy burden to carry because the next shop is 5 days away. For these challenges you have to look elsewhere. However, this country has about 8000 kilometers of marked walking Routes. Thanks to strict planning, the urbanization is concentrated, which leaves fast areas for farming and nature and therefore, for walking.

The Netherlands has been cultivated over the centuries. Nature, largely man made, is there because it was decided it should be there. A lake is a lake in the Netherlands because people have decided that the lake is more useful than the land that would become available if the lake was turned into a polder. When walking in the Netherlands, it is interesting to see the influence of men and their labor on the country as a whole. Then there is the long history of the Netherlands; several aspects of different time periods are visible along the Route.

The Route has some challenges to offer as well. Instead of climbing 1000 meters to get a nice view, you might have to walk 5 kilometers to see a nice polder. Instead of being exhausted after climbing, you might have developed a pair of blisters.

The main goal of this guide is to provide you with enough information for a comfortable walk along the Route. It contains a detailed Route description, a detailed map, practical advice on what to take and when to go, information on accommodation and where to find it, and information on public transport. The Guide does not offer information on the Pilgrims part of a journey and in only provides basic information on the sights along the Route.

The Pelgrimspad
The word Pelgrimspad translates into Pilgrims Way.  As such, many people travel it, beginning in Amsterdam and continuing all the way to Santiago de la Compostella in Spain. However, it also can be used as a Pilgrims way in the Netherlands itself since along the Route are a few local destinations for a pilgrimage.

Besides offering a pilgrimage, the Pelgrimspad offers a pleasant and comprehensive introduction to the Netherlands. You will cross all the major rivers, see how a polder works, pass many windmills, and visit many historic towns and villages. The Pelgrimspad is walked from Amsterdam to ‘s-Hertogenbosch, a distance of  about 210 kilometers. There is also an extension; the Pelgrimspad 2, going from ‘s-Hertogenbosch to Visé in Belgium.

One problem with the Pelgrimspad is its markings. While the Route is well maintained, some sections are not adequately marked. The reason is a typical one; the organized nature of the Dutch. For instance, if there is a marking on a lamp post, it may be eventually painted or even replaced within a couple of years, and there goes the marker! Also in Amsterdam, stickers are removed to make Amsterdam look nice but in the process markers are removed as well.    

Things to see or notice along the Route
The Pelgrimspad begins at the Central Station in Amsterdam, but my advice is not to start here. Although it has a lot of interesting sights to offer, the center of Amsterdam is a busy and sometimes confusing place to be. My advice is to spent one or two days in Amsterdam and see the sights. You may also want to see the sights along the Route before you begin walking. This way you have time available to enjoy the city without the burden of your backpack and without the worry that you will have to reach your next destination before nightfall. Then, when you are ready to begin walking, take a bus to near the visitor’s center of Het Amsterdamse Bos and start from there. This way you have a relaxed start of your journey.

Het Amsterdamse Bos is a large park-like forest on the edge of Amsterdam. It is man-made and its construction started during a depression to create employment. The last tree was planted in 1970. The park is situated near Schiphol airport, so there is plenty of noise overhead.

Soon after passing through Het Amsterdamse Bos, the Route reaches the town of Aalsmeer. Here you find the home of the largest flower auction in the world, housed in a huge building and open to visitors. Close to the village De Kwakel, the Route passes a small fort, part of the defense line around Amsterdam. From Aalsmeer the area becomes less densely populated. You will see more and more greenhouses where flowers and vegetables are grown.

After Aarlanderveen, the Route reaches a small polder. One of many along the Route. A polder is land that is often surrounded by levees. Regular pumping is required to keep this land dry. That is why there are so many windmills in the Netherlands; to keep our feet dry. Polders along the Route used to be marches or lakes. Often these lakes were formed when peat was collected for burning.

Windmills can only raise water to a limited height. Therefore it is often not possible to drain a polder with one windmill. One windmill raises the water 1 meter, the next another meter, etc, until the water can be led into a river or drainage canal. With the electric pumps used nowadays, this stepped raising of the water is no longer necessary.

By positioning the sails of a windmill in a certain way, the owner of the windmill can convey messages, such as a birth or death in the family. A joyous occasion is usually announced to the outside world by hanging clothing or other pieces of cloth between the sails.

Along the banks of the waterways you will see many small sticks with little orange/red flags. These mark the traps placed to keep the number of muskrats in check, killing about 300,000 animals each year. This killing is quite controversial. It is not done in a humane way, and the campaign to kill these animals is more expensive than mending the damage these animals cause.

The Reeuwijkese Plassen is an area with lakes and is very popular for water sports. Bogs used to cover this area until peat was extracted and the lakes were formed. Small dams still crisscross the area and the Route goes over the top of these dams. In spring, water birds can be seen with their young, making for a pleasant sight.

After the small village of Driebruggen (Three Bridges), the Route is situated on a Tiendweg, the Steinse Tiendweg.  A tiendweg is a wide track between two streams.  For some years the Route was rerouted because the Tiendweg had deteriorated badly. This deterioration was probably caused by the burrowing of muskrats. The Tiendweg was restored a few years ago. When arriving at the end of the Tiendweg, because of the many fences, your acrobatic skills will have improved considerably.

Going through Haastrecht, the Route passes the polder museum. This museum has an exhibition of the various machinery and pumps used to drain a polder. According to some sources, the name Haastrecht originates from Haast (hurried) Recht (justice). It once housed a court of justice and one of the facilities of the town were its gallows.

Schoonhoven is a small town known for its silver industry and it houses a college for silversmiths. Of interest is the Dutch Gold Silver and Clock museum. At Schoonhoven the river Lek is crossed on a ferry. On the Route all the major rivers are crossed on ferries; these are large manned vessels able to carry several cars. On the other side, the Route arrives at the edge of Nieuwpoort, a small fortified village, and then the village of Groot Ammers.

Here the Route continues on a narrow road, ‘Molenkade’, with 4 windmills. These windmills are still the only means to keep the feet dry for the farmers in the area to your left.

After a long stretch on top of a levee, the Route crosses a wide canal over a narrow bridge, then passes the first secluded campsite for Paalkamperen. Shortly after, the Route passes Den Donk.  A donk is a small area of higher ground in the marshland. Most of the area was marshland before it was drained. The next kilometers passes through polders.

Nearing a railway track, the Route continues on another Tiendweg. In former times a Tiendweg was part of the drainage system of the land and might have functioned as a dam. This made it possible to drain the areas on the two sides of the Tiendweg independently. In the spring you might find a swan nesting on this Tiendweg. If you go carefully around the swan, you might be allowed to pass, but take care! Swans can be intimidating! At the end of the Tiendweg the Route passes a nice windmill.

Soon you arrive in Hardinxveld, where the Route passes the museum De Koperen Knop. This is a private museum located in an historic farm. It gives an insight into the local history. In the garden of the museum, historic plants and trees are still cultivated. The out-buildings of the museum contain, among other things, a hoop-making smith who makes the steel rims for wooden wheels.

Old buildings in many low lying areas in the Netherlands are adapted for occasional flooding. These buildings have a high cellar, which means the ground floor is actually above ground level. In case of flooding, the inhabitants and their belongings were moved to the first floor. There are even provisions for mooring small boats alongside.

After skirting the village of Hardinxveld-Giessendam, the Route crosses a major highway and a canal. The noise of this highway is overwhelming.

Now the Route enters the Alblasserwaard, a large polder, and passes the second small campsite for Paalkamperen, an initiative from the Dutch forestry commission. It is a small campsite. Camping is allowed for free but comes without many facilities.

Gorinchem, also a former fortified town, is passed next. At one time it was the eighth largest town in the Netherlands and of importance because of its trade and strategic position. Now it is well known for its traffic jams. For you it might be of importance because it has a railway station and a large bus station.

Woudrichem is reached by taking a ferry or bus from Gorinchem. Like Gorinchem, Wouderichem is a small fortified town. It was a thriving fishing village until pollution and over-fishing spoiled this. Being a fortified town had its advantages but also restricted further development, since no building was allowed outside its walls. Only in the beginning of 1900, when it lost status as part of the defense network of the Netherlands, was it allowed to expand beyond its walls.

After leaving the village of Giessen, the Route crosses the Wilhelminasluis, ‘Wilhelminalocks’. To prevent floods, the course of the river Maas was changed to follow a shorter route to the sea. A canal was dug for this purpose. The dam at the Wilheminasluis blocks the Maas from its original course. The work on the dam was started around 1900. The Wilhelminasluis was opened in 1904 by Queen Wilhelmina, hence the name. It makes shipping possible along this stretch of water.

Later the Route passes a small fort which was part of the Nederlandse Waterlinie, the Dutch Water Defense line. The purpose of this fort was to protect a levee, always a weak point in an area protected by inundations. As with many forts, its main function now is to serve as a winter shelter for bats.

At the village of Brakel, you find the mansion of Brakel. Its walled gardens are maintained by volunteers in a biofriendly way. In the garden is the ruin of a fortified castle that was destroyed by the French in 1672 and never rebuild. About 100 years later, the current mansion, Huis Brakel, ‘House Brakel’, was built.

After Brakel, the Route continues along the bank of the river Waal. Soon, you have to make a choice between two alternatives. The nicest has the disadvantage of requiring a small ferry to cross an arm of the river Maas.  This ferry is closed on Sunday and during the off season. The other alternative does not have the problem with the ferry.

Later the Route reaches the Bergse Maas. This is crossed on a ferry. The ferry ride is free because this stretch of water was created to prevent floods. To compensate for the inconvenience of the local people having to cross here, it was ruled the crossing would be free of charge into eternity. That was about 100 years ago and this rule is still upheld in court.

The Route now takes you through the center of this town of Heusden, a small and completely restored fortified town. Its restoration once won acclaim as how to restore an old town and later comments on how not to. Judge for yourself. It sits on the bank of the river Maas. In the past, because of its location near the borders of different nobility, this town had its share of fighting. Strongly defended by it bastions and moats, it earned itself the reputation of impregnable.

The national park De Loons en Drunense Duinen (The Dunes of Loon en Drunen) is well known for its sand dunes and is one of the larges sandy areas in Europe. The dunes are the result of unsustainable use of the land that began in the middle Ages. Moorland was first used for its peat and later overgrazed by cattle. The sand once threatened the surrounding areas. Planting of trees eventually prevented this. Left to itself, the dunes would slowly be covered by vegetation again, but this would spoil the special area.

Nearing Den Bosch the Route passes a large lake, ‘De IJzeren Man. When the town of Den Bosch was extended, sand was needed for the building sites. A lake was formed where this sand was collected. The name originates from the big steam-powered dredging machine used to dig the lake.

After passing the lake, the Route soon arrives at the outskirts of Vught. It follows a line of fortifications, part of the defense of Den Bosch. The Route passes concentration camp Vught along the way. During World War II this was a stop in the deportation of Jews to other concentration camps in Germany and Poland. There is now a national monument where the camp used to be, Nationaal Monument Kamp Vught.

The Pelgrimspad ends in ‘s-Hertogenbosch, an interesting and historic town worth a visit of a few days. There is accommodation in and near the center of town. The capital of the province of North-Brabant, the name means “forest of the Duke” but it is usually abbreviated to Den Bosch, “The Forest.”

This town has a long and colorful history. It started as a small settlement on high ground in a marshy area. Near 1200 it became a town. Surrounded by low lying ground, it has a few small rivers running through it. Because of these circumstances it was possible to inundate the area around the town, making it easy to ward of attackers. During the 80-year war against Spain, the Spanish used this to good effect and managed to defend the town for a long time. When the Dutch grew weary of this, they put their knowledge of creating polders to good use. They built a large levee around the town and installed windmills to pump out the water, after which the town was taken within a few months.

When to go
When to go depends on weather, available hours of daylight, and the availability of accommodation. Considering the weather, it is best to plan your walk between April and the end of October. This is also the period with enough hours of daylight to walk a useful distance. It is also the period when most campsites are open.

However, the Pelgrimspad can be walked throughout the year and in the winter many Dutch walk sections of the Route on the weekends. Of course, they have the advantage of an up-to-date weather forecast. When walking the Route from the second half of December to March there is a chance of frost and snow.

Try to avoid the school holidays, which run from the beginning of July to the end of August with some variation depending on the region. Outside this period the walking will be quieter and chance of finding accommodation better. Spring is a nice period to go with trees blossoming, water birds nesting, and lambs everywhere you look.

How much time to allow
The Route is approximately 209 kilometers long. Most, but not all, accommodations are close to the Route. To reach accommodation you may have to walk a few extra kilometres which can add another 20 kilometers to the total journey.

How many days it will take to complete the Route depends on the kind of walk you have in mind, your physical condition, and the pack you are carrying. For a relaxed walk (remember you are on a holiday!!), for a person in regular physical condition, carrying normal luggage for overnight stays in hotels or pensions, allow for 10 to 12 days.

What to bring
What to bring depends on the conditions on the Route, the weather conditions, and the type of accommodation available. Below are some factors to consider when making your packing list.

Emergencies: Unfortunately, accidents and other inconveniences do happen. Minor cuts, blisters, dog bites, broken bones or even worse scenarios are possible. Of course it is impossible to prepare for every possible condition but I suggest you bring a basic first-aid kit.

Also bring a thermometer, a space blanket, a painkiller like paracetamol and a pocket knife. For obtaining help, carry a whistle and a torch (flashlight). Your mobile phone can be very useful for obtaining help. The number to dial for emergency service is 112.

Remember, bringing a first-aid kit is of no use if you do not know how to use it. Some basic first aid knowledge and mental preparedness are probably more important than a well-stocked first-aid kit.

Condition of the Route
Most of the Route is on unpaved roads through forest and meadows. Large stretches are on paved roads and only short stretches are on tracks. Walking or hiking boots are rarely essential, mainly because some stretches tend to be muddy. In general, European class A/B walking shoes or boots will do, but consider a class B if carrying a heavier pack. In dry weather most of the Route can be walked in sturdy walking sandals.

Drinking water: Tap water is drinkable in the Netherlands and at some places the tap water is considered to be of a higher quality than bottled mineral water. Bottled mineral water is widely available. Since you will often be passing villages there is no need to carry a large supply of water, but remember to carry/drink more on a hot day.

Food: Food can be obtained in the villages along the Route. Shops are closed on Sundays. Restaurants or hotels might have a closing day and few pensions provide dinner, so prepare to take some food along.

Breakfast: Breakfast is usually part of the accommodation cost. Unless you are camping, you do not have to worry about your breakfast. In most accommodations the breakfast is elaborate enough to make a lunch parcel; some even provide plastic bags for this purpose.

Snacks and Lunch: When lucky you start of with a lunch parcel in your pack. But to be on the safe side, take enough food with you to last a few days. Make ration packs, each containing enough food to last you one day. When it is cold, take extra food to give you energy to keep warm. The nicest thing is to get a quiche or a small pizza from a bakery or shop in the morning and save it for lunchtime.

Dinner: Dinner can be found at restaurants or at the hotel where you are staying. Few pensions provide dinner but some have kitchen facilities. When walking form pension to pension I usually buy a ready-prepared meal at a supermarket. In the evening there is usually a microwave available for heating this meal.

Weather
The Netherlands has a mild climate with usually fine weather for walking. There is some sunshine, some clouds, and a chance of some rain. However, during a day the weather can change drastically and a sunny morning can be followed by rain in the afternoon. If you are lucky you can have a spell of beautiful weather and with bad luck you can have rain almost every day.

Long stretches of the Route are on top of levees so are exposed and can be uncomfortable in two ways: (1) during bad weather because of the wind chill factor and (2) during warm periods because there is no shade for protection against the sun.

Considering the average weather in the Netherlands, bring serious rain protection and when walking in winter bring proper protection against the cold. Do not forget a hat for protection against the sun. While the Route can be walked the whole year, I do not recommend walking the Route when there is snow.

Accommodation
There are different categories of accommodation along the Route. A complete list of accommodations on or near the Route is given. The accommodations in this list are not rated. I am always happy to find any bed at the end of the day.

There are no specialized accommodations for hikers. Transferring luggage to the next accommodation is not generally available. During the school holiday's accommodation can be scarce so it is wise to book ahead. Youth Hostels or others kinds of Back-Packers are only available in Amsterdam and not in the other villages.

When it is not possible to find accommodation in the place you want, public transport makes it possible to go to another location to find accommodation.

Hotels: There are several hotels on or close to the Route. However, without long detours it is not possible to walk the entire Route using Hotels and you would need a large budget to do the Pelgrimspad this way. Prices range from 40 to 100 Euros per night; sometimes without the breakfast. Bring your credit card!!

Pensions: These are mostly of the Bed and Breakfast type. This is a pleasant way to do the Pelgrimspad and there are enough of them to do the whole Route this way. Quality varies, some being of the type that got its furniture at a garden sale while others got their inspiration from the magazine 'Home and Gardens'. Funny enough, the price is not always a good indicator of the type. The bill is paid in cash. Expect to pay between 25 and 40 Euros per person, but sometimes significantly higher.

Campsites: Campsites are widely available and affordable. Almost the entire Route can be walked using campsites. They can be very busy during the school holidays. Most campsites have space reserved for people traveling on foot or bicycle and squeezing in a tent is easier than squeezing in a bed in a hotel. Almost all the campsites are closed during the period October – March. Some small sites are situated on a farm. Price is approximately 10 Euro per night.

On a few campsites you can hire Trekkers Hutten. These are small cabins with about 4 beds and basic facilities. This will save you from pitching a tent.

On the Route there are two special campsites for Paalkamperen. On these sites you are allowed to camp for free. While on a regular Dutch campsite you will find toilets, drinking water and showers (on the bigger ones even shops and restaurants) on a paalcamperen campsite you only find a pump for non-drinking water. The spots are not supervised and remotely located (for Dutch conditions). The maximum amount of tents is very limited and you are only allowed to camp a few nights on these spots. However they are nicely situated in a nature reserve.

Wild camping is illegal in the Netherlands. However, when you decide to camp wild, some simple things will increase the tolerance to you camping wild: Keep a clean camp and leave the area where you camped as you found it. During dry periods tolerance decreases because you cooking a meal might cause a forest fires. If possible try to get permission from the owner of the land you are camping. When there are regular campsites nearby tolerance to wild camping decreases. Do not camp with many other hikers. Pitch your tent late and leave early. Avoid national parks.

Youth Hostels: There are no Youth Hostels along the Route, but when arriving in Amsterdam you can stay in the Stay-Okay; the (silly) Dutch name for Youth Hostels. There are many options; check your computer.

Booking: To be certain of a bed at the end of the day, my advice to book at least one day ahead. When making a reservation, write down or mark the accommodation you have booked!! This will save you confusion or even embarrassment the next day.

Other facilities along the Route
Shops: Shops are usually open from 9:00 o’clock to 18:00 o’clock. Closing time on Saturday is 17:00 o’clock.  Expect shops to be closed on Sunday. Shops are indicated on the map.

Banks: Most (but not all) villages on or alongside the Route have cash dispensers or ATM’s (Automated Teller Machine). Be sure your bank supports this system abroad! The cash dispensers are indicated on the map.

Public transport
There are several bus lines along the Route and most places can be reached by bus. Some the places along the Route can be reached by train. If you intend to make use of public transport regularly, get an OV-chipkaart. This card can be used to travel on the train, bus, tram and metro in the Netherlands. It can be obtained at railway stations, some Bruna bookstores, and some tobacco stores. The card itself is free but has to be charged with money. Each time you use public transport; train, bus, tram, metro, you check in with your card on a special machine on the railway platform or at the entrance of the bus or tram. When ending your trip on train, bus, tram, metro, you check out with your card. The fare is then withdrawn form the card.

Train:  Long distance travel in the Netherlands is done by train and there is an extensive network of railways with frequent trains.

Bus: Local travel is done by bus and most of the destinations in the Netherlands are within reach of a bus-stop. The busses usually run at least once an hour. During Saturday the frequency is reduced and on Sunday some lines are not running. During school holidays the frequency is reduced.

Bus and accommodation: While transporting luggage is not common along the Route, there is an alternative when you do not want to carry your backpack each day. The network and frequency of bus connections is such that it is possible to stay at an accommodation for a few nights and use the bus to get to this accommodation and back again.